O n a Friday evening the Rashleigh Arms crackles with boisterous enjoyment. This stout, white-washed seaside pub is clearly popular with locals young and old, but there's plenty for visitors, too, from excellent beer made at the nearby St Austell Brewery to 18 nautically named rooms. It offers a view all the way down to Charlestown's Unesco World Heritage harbour, where tall ships' masts are the crowning glory of a heart-stoppingly gorgeous Georgian scene, featured in 2018 in Poldark.